Khajuraho, a place famous across the world for its temples is a unique example of Indo-Aryan architecture. The temples were built by the Chandela rulers between 950-1050. Constructed within a 100-year span, all the temples follow the same pattern and all of them are elaborately carved. There were 85 temples in all, however, today only 22 survive.

Khajuraho derives its name from the Khajur tree (the date palm tree), which can be found in abundance in the area. With the wane of the Chandela empire, these magnificent temples lay neglected. However, since they were built in a relatively remote place, they were spared of the marauding tribes and other invaders who ran havoc with many Indian temples.

The Khajuraho temples only had to face the onslaught of Nature. For many centuries these temples were concealed in the dense jungles. They were discovered by Captain T.S Burt in 1838. However, tourists were allowed here only after the basic tourist infrastructures were built in the area.

It was only in this century, that they were rediscovered, restored and granted the recognition of heritage sites. The origin of these temples is shrouded by many legends. According to the most popular one, the Moon God fell for the charms of a Brahmin woman and seduced her. The woman shunned by the society became a recluse in a forest. There she gave birth to a son. The son heralded the beginning of the Chandela dynasty. And he built these temples to atone for his mother's sin.

Unlike other temples Khajuraho temples are a celebration of womanhood. Her myriad moods and facets and brought out alive by the delicate carvings on the walls and friezes of the temples. There are carvings of a woman writing letter, applying makeup to her eyes, combing her tresses, dancing, and playing with her child. Innocent, divine, coquettish, seductive, passionate and beautiful - women in all her different moods are depicted in intricate detail, sharply etched, sculpted with perfect skill.

The carvings
The Khajuraho temples are known world wide for their beautiful carvings. Each and every inch of the temples are filled with intricate carvings. All the walls, windows, pillars, ceilings are carved with geometrical and floral designs and figures of mythical and historical origin. Numerous gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon grace the walls of these temples.

There are number of sculptures depicting slices from everyday life, such as people working, deciples listening to their teachers, waging battles and so on. Then there are a variety of sculptures of real and mythical animals and beasts. There are many sculptures, which show women in postures of innocent play, while others depict carnal love (mithuns). There are many theories behind these erotic depictions.

Some scholars say that these depictions symbolize the tantric cult. According to them, the Chandelas were followers of the tantric cult, which believes that gratification of Earthly desires is a step towards attaining the infinite liberation, Nirvana. Yet another theory is that the erotica of Khajuraho had a specific purpose. In those days when boys lived in hermitages as "brahmacharis" until they attained manhood, the only way they could prepare themselves for the worldly role of 'householder' was through the study of these sculptures and the earthly passions they depicted.

While there are many who opine that these carvings reflect the spirit and philosophy of the age, which accepted enjoyment of the delights of arth (material wealth) and kama (sensual pleasures) while performing one's dharma (duty) as the way of life for the grihastha (householder).

The basic plan of the temple
The architectural style of Khajuraho temples is very different from temples of the same period. They stand on a stone platform, with subsidiary shrines at the four corners of the platform in the bigger temples. The sides of the risen platform are decorated with friezes. Each temple consists of four compartments: the entrance porch (Ardhamandap), the vestibule (Antarala) and the sanctum sanctorum (Garbhagriha) and in some of the larger temples, an extra hall (Mandap) with lateral enclosures.

Combined with the upward direction of the structure, further accentuated by vertical projections, the composite effect is reminiscent of the soaring peaks of a mountain range. One ascends to the temples up a flight of steps. Each temple has only one entrance facing the rising sun in the east (exceptions are the Chaturbhuj, Lalguan Mahadev and Chausath Yogini temples).

Most of the temples are built of sandstone in varying shades of buff, pink or pale yellow. Each belongs to a different sect, the Shiva, Vaishnava or Jaina Sects, but are often indistinguishable from one another to the untrained eye.

The temples are grouped under three major sects - Western group, Eastern group and Southern group.
The Kandariya Mahadev, the largest and the most typical Khajuraho temple belongs to the Western Group. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple soars 31 metres high. The sanctum enshrines a lingam, while the main shrine is ornately carved and depicts various gods, goddesses, apsaras (heavenly maidens) in elaborate detail. The entrance arch, the massive pillars and ceilings are adorned with exquisite carvings. Other temples in this group include Chaunsat Yogini, Chitragupta Temple, Lakshamana Temple and Matangeshwara Temple.

The Eastern Group comprises of three Jain temples - Parsavanatha Temple, Ghantai Temple and the Adinatha Temple - and three Hindu temples - Brahma temple, the Vamana temple and the Javari temple. Parsavanatha Temple is the largest in the group of three Jain temples. Within the temple, a throne faces the bull emblem of first tirthankara, Adinath. The walls, ceilings and pillars of this temple are covered with intricate and beautiful carvings depicting slices from daily life. The Ghantai Temple has a frieze depicting the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother. The Adinatha Temple is dedicated to the Jain saint, Adinatha.

The Southern Group constitutes of the Duladeo Temple and the Chaturbhuj Temple.Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the highlights of the Duladeo Temple are the sensuous images of the apsaras, and other exquisite sculptures. The Chaturbhuj Temple houses a huge, elaborately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum.

Khajuraho Dance Festival
In case you plan to visit the Khajuraho temples, make sure you are there during February/March. This is the time for the annual dance festival held every year at the temple grounds. The beautifully lit temples of Khajuraho provide a perfect backdrop for the annual Khajuraho Dance festival. Leading exponents of various Indian classical dance forms (Bharatnatyam, Kathak, Odisi, Kathakali etc) perform here.

How to reach
Khajuraho is well connected by air to Delhi, Banaras and Agra. A daily Boeing 737 service links Khajuraho with Delhi, Agra, Varanasi and Kathmandu. The nearest railheads from Khajuraho are Harpalpur 94 km and Mahoba 63 km. Once in Khajuraho, travelers can hire taxis, tongas or cycle-rickshaws to reach these medieval monuments. The nearest railheads are Mahoba (64 km) and Harpalpur (94 km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are convenient railheads for visitors from Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai, Agra and Varanasi. Khajuraho is connected by regular bus services with Mahoba, Harpalpur, Satna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Jabalpur and Bhopal.

Best Season to visit
September to March.

Compiled by Shravanti Choudhuri